Ingredients

1⁄4 cup olive oil, divided, plus more for brushing

1 garlic clove, minced

11⁄2 teaspoons crushed red pepper, divided

One 28-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes, smooshed with your hands, juices reserved

Kosher salt

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 cups whole milk, warmed

Freshly grated nutmeg

11⁄2 pounds ziti

1⁄2 pound mozzarella cheese, cut into 1⁄2-inch cubes

1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, divided

1 cup coarse bread crumbs

Preparation

  1. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the garlic and 1 teaspoon of the crushed red pepper and cook, stirring, until fragrant, just a minute or so. Add the tomatoes, with their juices, and a very large pinch of salt, turn the heat to high and bring the mixture to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer the sauce until just slightly thickened, about 10 minutes. Set aside to cool.

  2. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the flour and cook, stirring, until a smooth paste the palest shade of brown forms, about 2 minutes. While whisking continuously, slowly pour in the milk. Bring the sauce to a boil and cook, stirring, until it is nice and thick, about 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and season the béchamel to taste with salt and nutmeg. Set aside.

  3. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Brush a 9-by-13-inch baking dish with olive oil.

  4. Fill your largest pot with water, bring it to a boil and season liberally with salt. (You might need to cook the pasta in 2 batches, depending on the size of your pot.) Add the ziti and cook it 3 minutes short of the package instructions-you don’t want it to cook all the way through, or it will overcook when you bake it. Drain the pasta and transfer it to a large bowl.

  5. Add the reserved tomato sauce, the béchamel, mozzarella and 3⁄4 cup of the Parmesan to the ziti and stir well. Transfer the mixture to the prepared baking dish and scatter the remaining 1⁄4 cup Parmesan over the top.

  6. Toss the bread crumbs with the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a small bowl and season with salt. Scatter the bread crumbs over the ziti, then sprinkle with the remaining 1⁄2 teaspoon crushed red pepper and a pinch of freshly grated nutmeg.

  7. Bake the pasta until it is bubbling and the top is browned, about 15 minutes. Let the pasta rest for 10 minutes before serving.