Ingredients

Rub

4 teaspoons kosher salt

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons five-spice powder

One 2-pound bag sauerkraut or homemade

One 12-ounce bottle Pilsner beer

2 cups chicken stock

1/2 cup water

1/2 cup apple cider

3 tablespoons Dijon mustard

Horseradish Cream

1/4 cup prepared horseradish

1 cup sour cream

2 tablespoons mayonaise

Preparation

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 335 degrees F.

Using a sharp chef’s knife, slice the rack of ribs into individual ribs.

To make the rub: Mix together the salt, pepper and five-spice powder in a small bowl. Use your hands to massage the rub all over the ribs. Now is not the time to be coy - be forceful about it.

Transfer the ribs to a casserole or a roasting pan. Top with the sauerkraut, juice and all. Add the beer, stock, water, cider and Dijon mustard. The liquid should just barely cover the ribs; if it doesn’t, add water until it does.

Cover the roasting pan loosely with aluminum foil and poke holes in the foil with a fork. Transfer to the oven and bake for 1 1/2 hours.

Remove and discard the aluminum foil. Turn the oven up to 450 degrees F. Return the roasting pan to the oven uncovered and bake for about an additional 30 minutes. When ready, the ribs should be meltingly tender. The sauerkraut will be lightly browned. The braising liquid should be reduced to a delicious jus. If you want a thicker sauce, simply ladle a few cups into a small saucepan and reduce until thickened.

Meanwhile, make the horseradish cream: Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl and whisk together until smooth. Leave out at room temperature until ready to use.

Transfer the ribs and sauerkraut to a platter, along with the jus. Serve with the horseradish cream dolloped on top or on the side.

Excerpted from Smoke and Pickles by Edward Lee (Artisan Books). Copyright 2013. Photographs by Grant Cornett.